Subscriber Exclusive: Ukraine on Film

Ukraine is at war but life springs eternal on the country's western border.

LVIV, UA — If you squint hard enough, your eyes can blur the edges of war.

Night has fallen over the old city and there isn’t a soldier in sight. No AK-47s dangling from shoulder straps, no city guards nervously asking to see your papers and no air raid sirens howling for people to take cover.

In the cafés and bistros on Ruska Street, foreign corresponden…